Đại úy Chuck and the NCOIC, Part 8

June 11 - Day 7

SOB said he’d be around Bill’s at ten and could “fix somethin’” but an early start was a better option with Hancock less than 20 miles away. Scenery was unchanging while the trail varied, as before, with all possible combinations including (but not limited to) wide, narrow, soft, firm, gravel and mud.


Ten miles before reaching Hancock it’s possible to join the Western Maryland Rail Trail, a paved trail paralleling C&O for more than twenty miles. It was possible to maintain 15 miles per hour and gain some relief from the constant adjustments necessary on any gravel path. Food was the primary reason for wanting to reach Hancock and a visit to Weaver’s took care of those needs, but C&O Bicycle (http://candobicycle.com/) was of equal interest because the Specialize wireless computer that had been functioning only intermittently went comatose. In its place went a basic, wired unit from Planet Bike.



Enjoying the warm morning was one of the volunteers who ply the Western trail. His ride was worth a long look.


Many of the locks have houses associated with them and some are particularly attractive. Some have been fully restored and equipped and are available for daily rental.



Other than the similar terrain and woods there was little to distinguish the section of the Trail to Williamsport, the next scheduled stop.

Most of the towns along the GAP and C&O are small and interaction with residents who are not involved in or at least familiar with bike riders is minimal. Even in Cumberland, a busy small city, the end of GAP and beginning of C&O and the riders and walkers using them is commonplace. Meeting a bevy of swimming suit clad adults, adolescents and children, maybe thirty or more, leaping into the Potomac River where the canal ceases for several miles was a shock to our woodland sensibilities. The towpath here has the appearance of a ledge and feels far more treacherous than it probably is, but after hundreds of miles of woods, a rocky cliff on one side and the broad river on the other was disconcerting.

Williamsport was cultural and physical shock with too many cars and too steep hills, but eventually the Red Roof Inn was located. Discounts for veterans and a generally bike-friendly attitude made the stop positive. Even with several eateries nearby delivery pizza was the food option of choice.

Đại úy Chuck and the NCOIC, Part 7

June 9 and 10 - Days 5 and 6

Day five was what hikers call a Zero Day; no miles. A visit with Đại úy’s family south of Cumberland was a welcome relief from Trail accommodations; real beds and no hastening to repack and move on. Oh . . . and food! It’s pretty difficult to eat too much when you spend hours pedaling, but Aunt Mary got pretty close to topping off the tanks with her culinary offerings while Uncle Ronnie offered his gentle, sage observations.

Back in Cumberland on Day six the journey changed significantly as the Trail traveled along the former towpath of the C & O Canal. Weekend traffic, both foot and wheeled, contrasted with the GAP as did the nature of the Trail’s surface. Where the GAP was primarily hard-packed and wide, C&O which is pretty much flat, varied from packed and rutted to parallel single tracks to muddy to being basically more technical and requiring greater attention to avoid mishaps.

Narrow trails

Visually, the C&O was very different. Vistas and mountains were replaced by the ever present Potomac to the right and the canal to the left and for many miles after leaving Cumberland man’s presence was obvious even in the size of trees and depth of forest along with the first of more than seventy locks we’d pass before reaching DC. Unlike the GAP, pumps provide water at frequent intervals, a very good thing, but iodine used to treat the water adds an odd taste and a potential problem for anyone with thyroid problems. Associated with the pumps are Hiker Biker Campsites; primitive, wooded, grassy spaces, fire ring, grill and picnic table.

Đại úy demonstrating his skill.

Locks came in various states of repair and many offered appealing Kodak Moments.

Grooves on aquaduct made walking a better option than riding.

Lock with intact gates

After Big Savage and Brush Tunnels (remember, “Keep Left Of Fence”), Paw Paw Tunnel could have been a disappointment, but it wasn’t! More than 3000 feet of canal and towpath through a mountain? Took almost fifteen years to complete and the result is pretty damn remarkable.

Paw Paw Tunnel

Lotsa bricks

Big tunnel. Small towpath.

One significant difference between GAP and C&O is the way communities along GAP have embraced it. Locating services after leaving Cumberland can be frustrating even when being told “y’ can’t miss it”. Even when finding “y’ find it” the discovery can be a mixture of odd, interesting and frustrating. Little Orleans was like that. After 47 miles it was time to seek shelter for the night and food. So far C&O had not been the nightmare some people had depicted, nor had it been a walk-in-the-park. Bill’s Place is located in the small settlement a short distance off the Trail and up a hill, as many things are along both GAP and C&O. Reviews and opinions about Bill’s Place varied widely, but most suggested it was a must-visit place.

Bill’s Place is now SOB’s Place, meaning Son-of-Bill, since Bill died in 2013. Clientele was mix of bike riders and locals. A corner of the single large are held typical camp store fare, the central area had adequate seating for twenty or thirty people at assorted tables and an L-shaped bar dominated the area just inside the entrance; just a typical rural gathering place that happened to be close to a hiker biker trail. Đại úy chose a ham and cheese sandwich from the basic menu, but added Maryland Crab Soup. NCOIC opted for a burger. The food was above average and according to Dai uy, the soup which he said was more like a chowder was excellent.

Posing at Bill's Place

Bill's Place

Bikers, Hikers, Canoers, Hunters, et cetera

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Directions were given to Little Orleans Campground with the caution that there’s a hill. There was. There were; one steep downhill that would be negotiated uphill the following morning and one serious uphill that kicked both the Đại úy’s and NCOIC’s asses. The directions to the campground had said “.6 miles from trail.” Point five was vertical! Fortunately, the campground was pleasant and quiet and had adequate shower and laundry facilities. The NCOIC’s choice of tent site ran a bit too much downhill, but there was no problem sleeping.

Day 6 was physically demanding because of the nature of the C&O and the need to navigate obstacles and other people, but it was a good start.