Đại úy Chuck and the NCOIC, Part 8

June 11 - Day 7

SOB said he’d be around Bill’s at ten and could “fix somethin’” but an early start was a better option with Hancock less than 20 miles away. Scenery was unchanging while the trail varied, as before, with all possible combinations including (but not limited to) wide, narrow, soft, firm, gravel and mud.


Ten miles before reaching Hancock it’s possible to join the Western Maryland Rail Trail, a paved trail paralleling C&O for more than twenty miles. It was possible to maintain 15 miles per hour and gain some relief from the constant adjustments necessary on any gravel path. Food was the primary reason for wanting to reach Hancock and a visit to Weaver’s took care of those needs, but C&O Bicycle (http://candobicycle.com/) was of equal interest because the Specialize wireless computer that had been functioning only intermittently went comatose. In its place went a basic, wired unit from Planet Bike.



Enjoying the warm morning was one of the volunteers who ply the Western trail. His ride was worth a long look.


Many of the locks have houses associated with them and some are particularly attractive. Some have been fully restored and equipped and are available for daily rental.



Other than the similar terrain and woods there was little to distinguish the section of the Trail to Williamsport, the next scheduled stop.

Most of the towns along the GAP and C&O are small and interaction with residents who are not involved in or at least familiar with bike riders is minimal. Even in Cumberland, a busy small city, the end of GAP and beginning of C&O and the riders and walkers using them is commonplace. Meeting a bevy of swimming suit clad adults, adolescents and children, maybe thirty or more, leaping into the Potomac River where the canal ceases for several miles was a shock to our woodland sensibilities. The towpath here has the appearance of a ledge and feels far more treacherous than it probably is, but after hundreds of miles of woods, a rocky cliff on one side and the broad river on the other was disconcerting.

Williamsport was cultural and physical shock with too many cars and too steep hills, but eventually the Red Roof Inn was located. Discounts for veterans and a generally bike-friendly attitude made the stop positive. Even with several eateries nearby delivery pizza was the food option of choice.

Đại úy Chuck and the NCOIC, Part 7

June 9 and 10 - Days 5 and 6

Day five was what hikers call a Zero Day; no miles. A visit with Đại úy’s family south of Cumberland was a welcome relief from Trail accommodations; real beds and no hastening to repack and move on. Oh . . . and food! It’s pretty difficult to eat too much when you spend hours pedaling, but Aunt Mary got pretty close to topping off the tanks with her culinary offerings while Uncle Ronnie offered his gentle, sage observations.

Back in Cumberland on Day six the journey changed significantly as the Trail traveled along the former towpath of the C & O Canal. Weekend traffic, both foot and wheeled, contrasted with the GAP as did the nature of the Trail’s surface. Where the GAP was primarily hard-packed and wide, C&O which is pretty much flat, varied from packed and rutted to parallel single tracks to muddy to being basically more technical and requiring greater attention to avoid mishaps.

Narrow trails

Visually, the C&O was very different. Vistas and mountains were replaced by the ever present Potomac to the right and the canal to the left and for many miles after leaving Cumberland man’s presence was obvious even in the size of trees and depth of forest along with the first of more than seventy locks we’d pass before reaching DC. Unlike the GAP, pumps provide water at frequent intervals, a very good thing, but iodine used to treat the water adds an odd taste and a potential problem for anyone with thyroid problems. Associated with the pumps are Hiker Biker Campsites; primitive, wooded, grassy spaces, fire ring, grill and picnic table.

Đại úy demonstrating his skill.

Locks came in various states of repair and many offered appealing Kodak Moments.

Grooves on aquaduct made walking a better option than riding.

Lock with intact gates

After Big Savage and Brush Tunnels (remember, “Keep Left Of Fence”), Paw Paw Tunnel could have been a disappointment, but it wasn’t! More than 3000 feet of canal and towpath through a mountain? Took almost fifteen years to complete and the result is pretty damn remarkable.

Paw Paw Tunnel

Lotsa bricks

Big tunnel. Small towpath.

One significant difference between GAP and C&O is the way communities along GAP have embraced it. Locating services after leaving Cumberland can be frustrating even when being told “y’ can’t miss it”. Even when finding “y’ find it” the discovery can be a mixture of odd, interesting and frustrating. Little Orleans was like that. After 47 miles it was time to seek shelter for the night and food. So far C&O had not been the nightmare some people had depicted, nor had it been a walk-in-the-park. Bill’s Place is located in the small settlement a short distance off the Trail and up a hill, as many things are along both GAP and C&O. Reviews and opinions about Bill’s Place varied widely, but most suggested it was a must-visit place.

Bill’s Place is now SOB’s Place, meaning Son-of-Bill, since Bill died in 2013. Clientele was mix of bike riders and locals. A corner of the single large are held typical camp store fare, the central area had adequate seating for twenty or thirty people at assorted tables and an L-shaped bar dominated the area just inside the entrance; just a typical rural gathering place that happened to be close to a hiker biker trail. Đại úy chose a ham and cheese sandwich from the basic menu, but added Maryland Crab Soup. NCOIC opted for a burger. The food was above average and according to Dai uy, the soup which he said was more like a chowder was excellent.

Posing at Bill's Place

Bill's Place

Bikers, Hikers, Canoers, Hunters, et cetera

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Directions were given to Little Orleans Campground with the caution that there’s a hill. There was. There were; one steep downhill that would be negotiated uphill the following morning and one serious uphill that kicked both the Đại úy’s and NCOIC’s asses. The directions to the campground had said “.6 miles from trail.” Point five was vertical! Fortunately, the campground was pleasant and quiet and had adequate shower and laundry facilities. The NCOIC’s choice of tent site ran a bit too much downhill, but there was no problem sleeping.

Day 6 was physically demanding because of the nature of the C&O and the need to navigate obstacles and other people, but it was a good start.

Đại úy Chuck and the NCOIC, Part 6

June 8 – Day 4

In Basic Training one of the concepts learned is based on the expression, “Don’t stand when you can sit. Don’t sit when you can lay down.” I a similar fashion when the opportunity arises to spend a night in a real bed, make use of the opportunity. Yoder’s Guest House is a place where both body and spirit can be refreshed. If that seems like an overstatement you’ve never stayed there; B&B quality rooms and ambiance and access to a well stocked kitchen makes it a very special value without B&B pricing.

Yoder's Guest House

Posing for Yoder's

The other attraction in Meyersdale that draws bikers from the GAP despite the steep return trip is the G.I. Dayroom Diner, a breakfast/lunch place where tasty carbs are standard fare where locals in caps and ready-to-go-to-work attire share space with colorful kit-wearing riders. The grill operator knows his craft, wielding a spatula to make perfect over medium eggs, pancakes with smiley faces, local sausage patties and bacon on the flat-top. Not having pancakes s a mistake because one of the syrups offered is locally produced maple, one of the town’s claims to fame (PA Maple Festival).

Grill operations at G.I.

Up . . .

. . . Down

Meyersdale is the last town along Gap before reaching the Eastern Continental Divide after something like 75 miles of uphill. Fortunately, the up is a gentle grade and Đại úy Chuck and NCOIC could manage an easy 10 to 12 mph without great effort. Reaching the Divide brought one of those “man, that was cool” smiles.

Eastern Continental Divide

Downhill on the other side!

Down is cool!

The loose gravel trail paralleling a railroad made the fifteen mile descent a bit squirmy on but required a minimum of pedaling. Vistas and viaducts, deep woods and charming villages made the climb to the Divide especially picturesque, but, along with the dramatic marking of the Divide, Big Savage Tunnel and the windy vista encountered upon exiting and the Mason-Dixon Line, provided satisfactory sensory input. There are three tunnels on Cumberland side of the GAP, Big Savage, Borden and Bush, 3900 foot Big Savage Tunnel being the longest, and Brush Tunnel with a seemingly obvious warning where the Trail shares the tunnel with a sometimes operational set of tracks.

Big Savage

Mason or Dixon?

It seems obvious.

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 At the end of four days (and part of one night) riding, Cumberland was a welcomed stopping point as it marked a Zero Day with some of Đại úy’s family from the area. Two days later came the very different challenges presented by the C&O.

Cumberand!

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Đại úy Chuck and the NCOIC, Part 5

June 7, 2015 - Day 3

Morning brought the revelation that Outflow Campground at Confluence was a large and popular place especially for anglers because of the nearby Youghiogheny River and the upstream hydroelectric dam. For Đại úy and the NCOIC, Confluence will remain pleasantly memorable for Sisters’ Cafe and breakfast. It was also the breakfast stop a couple also riding a Co-Motion, but whose card is tucked away for safe-keeping and will not reappear until everything is unpacked in a couple of weeks. Argh!


The steady climb that had started in earnest around Connelsville continued. There were fewer travelers along this portion of the Trail, perhaps because it was Sunday and perhaps because it is less accessible.


Rockwood’s Hostel on Main in Rockwood had been a potential end-of-day stopping point. Instead, the associated Rockwood Mill Shoppes and Opera House became the place for a late lunch.


After the previous night’s events a hot shower and real bed beckoned and Yoder’s Guest House in Meyersdale was the destination of choice. Previously the place had been called a motel while bearing no resemblance to a motel. After some minor renovations it is much more than a motel and slightly less than a B&B and well worth considering. Storage for bikes is managed by using a portion of the lockable basement. A key added to the room key permits easy access. The Co-Motion fit without too much difficulty. Nice rooms, hot showers and a/c completed the deal.

If there is a negative to this day it was the steep hills to be navigated getting to things away from the trail or when wanting to return to it (or both!). Of course it’s to be expected, but you don’t have t like it. Nonetheless, another 35 or so miles were added to the total.

Đại úy Chuck and the NCOIC, Part 4

June 6, 2015 - Day 2

Departing Boston took longer than we wanted, mostly because of the need to adjust the loading technique; pretty typical for a first-time tour. After descending the hill from Yough Shore Inn we turned upstream and resumed following the Youghiogheny River. Despite the previous day’s heavy rain the Trail was in fine shape and the rain had increased the flow of the many small streams and waterfalls.

Along the Youghiogheny River

Falling Water

We encountered numerous riders and walkers along the predominantly flat terrain from Boston to West Newton where many people did their comings and goings. Among the walkers we met a young man before reaching West Newton whose on-the-trail name was Tenderfoot, a name he felt fit the nature of his first serious walk. He’d started walking south on the Appalachian Trail in Duncannon then west upon reaching the GAP by way of the Kentuck Trail. His intention was to walk until he grew tired of it and that he planned to turn northward eventually so he could walk the AT from north to south before he was done. He’d covered about 350 of his many-miles walk.

Tenderfoot

The large parking area at the West Newton Trailhead benefits trail users, the West Newton Bike Shop and The Trailside restaurant. Both the bike shop and the restaurant were very busy. The guy manning the bike shop was joyless and the only server working the deck was overloaded with the arrival of a lot of people. From sitting down to leaving consumed ninety minutes that we would have liked having at day’s end. The food was good and probably worth the cost.

The Trailside above and West Newton Bike Shop below at West Newton Trailhead

West Newton Trailhead

After leaving West Newton the Trail begins to climb, at first imperceptibly then noticeably approaching Connellsville. From there to Ohiopyle the climb is constant, but we could maintain a comfortable 10 to 12 mph because of the quality of the Trail. Unfortunately, Ohiopyle became a for-future-reference point when we decided that we’d rather stop there than continue on to Confluence, another twelve miles ahead. Weekends are made for outdoor and water activities and there were no rooms at the inn . . . any of the not very many inns . . . and no answer at Ohiopyle State Park. A call to Wendy World Family Campground did nothing to make things better.

With several hundred lumens blazing we continued toward Confluence hoping that Outflow Campground would be open. There were several potential freestyle campsites but hope was being held-out for something slightly more civilized. Was it a surprise that a lovely lady named Robyn was on duty until 11 PM? You betcha! Was there joy at finding a place to pitch a tent? Indeed!


Thus, the day ended after seeing a couple of bears, a turkey, some rabbits, waterfalls and lotsa riders and walkers. There’d been moments of elation and some of disappointment, but there was no lessening of the pure joy of accomplishment and sense of adventure.



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Đại úy Chuck and the NCOIC, Part 3

June 5, 2015 - Day 1

After driving to Pittsburgh International Airport the ride began . . . slowly as loading gear on the Co-Motion was burdened by working in the “black hole” rental vehicle return area. No one was certain of how to reach the beginning of the Montour Trail, a trail permitting bicycle access to the airport. Joanne, a helpful Avis employee working in the black hole, tracked down Officer Tony of the Allegheny County Police Department and the burly Marine (there are no former marines) arranged for Officer Cervone (former Army) to lead us to the beginning of the Trail. As difficult as getting ready was, the courtesy of these people made the start more pleasant.

Actual departure was delayed when the NCOIC (that’s me) could not find his knee brace, so let’s make this more personal. I had strapped my recently acquired replacement ACL brace to one of the front panniers and as we were about to follow Officer Cervone I noticed it was not there. Cursing my stupidity I limped back to the Avis black hole. The Dodge Grand Caravan had already been taken away to be prepared for another renter, but after a couple of radio massages was returned; unfortunately, no brace. As I returned to Đại úy Chuck I realized I was wearing the damn thing! The Đại úy agreed to not mention my faux pas.

Tunneling the Montour Trail

Nearing the end of Montour Trail

Montour Trail was a pleasant surprise with its varied terrain, fragrant flowers and friendly riders and pedestrians. Unfortunately, the Trail got us only as far as Coraopolis where we could find no one able to direct us to a trail that would avoid very urban, very hectic Pittsburgh. We asked for help from the guys at PAVE-RITE, but their knowledge of bike trails was lacking. They did know the terrain of the area and recommended a route that was not overly physically demanding. They also shared their Pittsburgh humor and Gatorade, both were greatly appreciated!

One downside to following a route suggested by pavers was the heavy truck traffic. The second was (OMG) several miles of one-way road construction; Route 51, West Carson Street. Urban riding is tedious and demanding requiring focused attention to traffic and traffic control and I like the challenge . . . for a while! One downside to following a route suggested by pavers was the heavy truck traffic. The second was (OMG) several miles of one-way road construction; Route 51, West Carson Street. Urban riding is tedious and demanding requiring focused attention to traffic and traffic control and I like the challenge . . . for a while! Đại úy Chuck has an entirely different perspective. Traffic sounds, shifting balance avoiding obstacles, stops and starts and the vibrations of numerous passing dump trucks create negative sensory overload. Đại úy Chuck has an entirely different perspective. Traffic sounds, shifting balance avoiding obstacles, stops and starts and the vibrations of numerous passing dump trucks create negative sensory overload.

Stop for photo opportunity and . . . oops!

Heinz Field from Three Rivers Heritage Trail

Much of the early parts of the Trail leaving Pittsburgh is a physical mashup traversing parking lots, ducking behind warehouses and circling behind restaurants and other commercial properties. Soon after stopping for a water and bar break at Waterfront Bike Rental we reached what seemed to be “the real trail.” Soon after, reality of another sort caught up with us in the form of thunder and lightning. Don’t stand under trees. Seek cover. Uh huh. Only trees around and nothing resembling cover so what do you do? POR; press on regardless while Đại úy asks “How close was that?” meaning the one that lit up the sky. “Not too close” say I.

Near the beginning of the GAP

Make a left and go that way!

If there was a sign indicating we’d reached the GAP I missed it, but somewhere south of Homestead we’d met one goal; survive PBG and ride the GAP. Our next goal was to reach Boston and get some rest at Yough Shore Inn (or Manor if you read the sign), an eclectically decorated B&B. Our hostess, Lin, was great and the accommodations quite satisfactory. Her facility is used almost exclusively by bikers and by hikers who can pitch their tents on the lawn behind the building. It is also one of the stops for rides led by Adventure Cycling. Bikes are kept secure on a deck accessible only from inside. She provides a wide variety of useful food; bananas, yogurt, cereals, muffins and bagels and puts you to bed on one of her uncommonly decorated rooms. Lin offered a ride to Woody’s, a nearby Italian/American restaurant, where Đại úy Chuck turned shrimp and scallop risotto into alfredo because he wanted their made-in-house pasta and I did fast work on spaghetti with meatball. If we spoke at all it was single words. Lin spared us the ride back, too.

Lotsa choices!

Chuck and Lin

Not The Magnolia Room

Another of Lin's rooms

Fifteen of the first fifty miles were difficult, but the Montour Trail, Three Rivers Heritage Trail and the GAP made-up for everything difficult. Day two should take us to Connellsville or Ohiopyle, forty or fifty miles. Already it is obvious that even the most stressful part of the ride was getting through PBG. We'll worry about DC and Balto when we get there.

Đại úy Chuck and the NCOIC, Part 2

The Đại úy  is unaccustomed to self-supported touring. Generally, when he rides 500 miles in a week’s time he only has to be concerned about pedaling, water and energy bars. For our 500+ miles it’s about taking whatever you think you’ll need, plus planning where to spend each night.

The other thing Đại úy’s used to is the shirts he gets for participating. He wears them proudly, like the ones from RAGBRAI. Knowing this, I figured I needed to find a way for him to get a shirt for this ride, so I called Aero Tech Designs, a company making bike wearables in Pittsburgh. I spoke to Jordan, their Marketing Manager (and Pro Rider), and explained that a couple of old Vets were gonna ride the GAP and C&O and since I wore some of their stuff was there any chance of getting a shirt for Đại úy  . . . okay, for me too!

Fast-forward to this morning when the FedEx guy tapped on my door bearing a large box. Yeah, Aero Tech wouldn’t mind at all doing something for a couple of old guys—Vets—who ride bikes. Get some pictures. Say some nice stuff. And thanks for serving your country.

Đại úy’ll have some shirts and so will I and we’ll make Aero Tech proud. Nice arrangement.

Đại úy Chuck and the NCOIC

Just as Non-Commissioned Officers, NCOs, are the backbone of the Army, Captains (Đại úy  in Vietnamese) are the heavy lifters of the officer corp and as such gained a special level of respect during the Vietnam War; being called “di wee”, the Americanized pronunciation of the Vietnamese words. Officers, typically, had drivers because the simple operation of motorized vehicles (other than aircraft) can be challenging for many of them. Drivers were drawn from the enlisted ranks and served their officers every needs, like opening doors, another difficult mechanical task. When the former Army officer, Captain Chuck, gave me the opportunity to pilot his tandem bicycle (clearly equivalent to being his driver) it seemed necessary to elevate myself to NCOIC, meaning Non-Commissioned Officer in charge, a slight misnomer, but allowing a greater sense of self-esteem. Thus, this and subsequent writings about our travels together will be grouped as “Ðai uy Chuck and the NCOIC.”

The Đại úy and I have logged more than 500 miles on his Co-Motion Periscope Torpedo and are becoming a good team. Because a previous pilot (the name applied to the person “driving” a tandem bike, also known as the captain and not used by us for obvious reasons) ran Chuck the Stoker (stoker being the name for the person whose primary role is providing muscle) into a metal pole and I have not, Đại úy Chuck thinks I am good pilot/driver, his blindness keeping him from witnessing some of the potentially harrowing moments we have avoided.

We’ve managed to become an increasingly efficient team, maybe because I don’t deal with him as a blind guy and he doesn’t care that I am old. The result is that we’ve ridden 60+ miles one way to spend a long weekend on the Gulf in Cedar Key, completed a windy metric century as part of the Tour de Forts and next week plan to go large and ride from Pittsburgh to D.C on the GAP and C&O Trails, then take on the challenge of riding from D.C. to Baltimore and finally north into central PA. The Đại úy’s motivation is to not surrender to his blindness. Mine is to stay alive. Makes us a good pair.

I don’t know whether it was too presumptuous or arrogant to ask Andrew and Razia of Flagship Coffee if they’d like to be the official coffee providers for Đại úy Chuck and the NCOIC for our ride. “Of course” was their response. Got a similar response from Monica and Mike of Monica’s Cococastile Soap who are creating wrappers for sample-sized bars noting Đại úy’s accomplishments and efforts to encourage others to develop a more active lifestyle. As Đại úy puts it, “I’m not handicapped. I’m blind.” We’ll use Monica’s soap and give the rest away to spread the good word. Another “hot damn!” moment came during the past week when Aero-Tech Designs, manufacturers of my favorite bicycle attire said they’d provide a couple of shirts, shorts and socks for the old guys on a bike. I’ve worn their touring shorts for three years and all are still in good condition despite regular use. That they make their products in Coraopolis, just north of Pittsburgh (yes, made in America) is a nice subtext.

When we stop where there’s WiFi I’ll update the blog and let you know what’s happening as I did while trying to make the trip August 2012 trip to PA. You can also see what’s happening from a different point of view by checking Twitter; Chuck’s CoMotion.

LEJ; Armed and Delicious

There’s a new vendor at Haile’s Saturday Market— LEJ Pretzels—and maybe it’s my Pennsylvania heritage (80% of America’s pretzels are made in PA) that made me try their product.

I like a good soft pretzel and I don’t care whether it’s claimed to be Bavarian-style or not. The last soft pretzel was an act bordering on being a pretzel-sin. I was in Philadelphia’s 30th Street Station and I purchased a pretzel from a franchise vendor. Like other franchise products it was enough to satisfy my hunger after an overnight train ride but its flavor was mostly derived from the yellow (not dark) mustard dispensed from small single serve packets. Dry and bland best describe the pretzel.

I took one of LEJ’s full-sized “Bavarian-Style Pretzels with me when I left the Market, eschewing on-the-spot consumption using their squeeze bottle of commercial yellow mustard. To their credit, the people of LEJ happily directed customers toward Nana Pat’s mustard; a few spaces further south. Because Nana Pat is a “cottage food operation” her mustard cannot be offered by LEJ, yet. It was the presence of some Fat Tire in my refrigerator at home that clinched my decision to try a pretzel.

When I got home I put the pretzel in its brown paper bag in the oven, turned it to warm and began making a salad using some of the greens I’d gotten. By the time the oven pre-heated to 170 my salad was ready and the pretzel was at a proper overeating temperature. I added some of Nana Pat’s Fat Tire mustard and ate. One of the problems with most commercial, mall pretzels is that they are pale imitations lacking in flavor. One of the strengths of LEJ’s pretzel is its abundance of the right flavors which are derived from two sources; the basic dough that is neither too sweet nor too salty and the properly darkened “skin. “ Without the skin, a result of the Maillard reaction which turns sugars into much deeper, more complex flavors, a pretzel is little more than a piece of dough. These pretzels make the grade with the addition of mustard enhancing the flavor rather than being it.

Score a big one for LEJ Pretzels.